River, canal and rail, and never a taxi. The sights in the cool of the morning, a rest in the midday heat, and every evening timed to the sunset. Start on a Wednesday, so the last day is a weekend for the big market.
Day 1 · not a Monday
The royal river
- The Grand Palace
- Wat Pho
- Lunch at Tha Tien
- Pak Khlong Talat
- Wat Arun
- Sunset: Wat Arun from Tha Tien
- Yaowarat
Take the Blue Line to Sanam Chai and be at the Grand Palace gate at half past eight, when tickets go on sale: ฿500, with the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Next door, Wat Pho's Reclining Buddha is forty-six metres long. Have lunch in the shade at Tha Tien, walk ten minutes to the flower market, then take the cross-river ferry to Wat Arun at about four, when the light turns warm. Cross back by a quarter to six and watch the sun go down behind the prang. After dark, ride one stop to Wat Mangkon for Yaowarat, Chinatown's neon street.
Why this order: the palace before the coaches and the heat, and Wat Arun saved for the late-afternoon light. Up close you see the porcelain; from across the river you see the postcard.
Tip: if someone outside says the palace is closed today, keep walking: it's a known opener for a tuk-tuk ride to a gem shop. Wat Pho's ticket is cash only.
The free planner has this day's times, the ferry and the map →
Day 2 · not a Tuesday
The canal and the old walls
- Jim Thompson House
- The canal boat
- Lunch: Thip Samai
- Loha Prasat
- Sunset: the Golden Mount
- Dinner: Jay Fai
Take the Skytrain to National Stadium and be at Jim Thompson House at ten for the first guided tour: six old teak houses, most of them brought down the river from Ayutthaya. From Saphan Hua Chang pier, ride the canal boat west along Khlong Saen Saep to the last stop, Panfa Leelard: the city's working back door, and the fastest way across this part of town. Eat pad thai at Thip Samai, see the thirty-seven metal spires of Loha Prasat, then rest through the heat. Be at the Golden Mount by a quarter past five for the sunset over the old town's roofs.
Our verdict: the sky deck charges up to ฿1,200 for a sunset. The Golden Mount costs ฿100.
Tip: Jay Fai is open Wednesday to Saturday, closes at half past seven and takes cash only. Didn't plan for it? Walk Khao San Road once, and eat on a side street.
The free planner has this day's times, the boat and the map →
Day 3 · a weekday
Out to Ayutthaya
- The train from Krung Thep Aphiwat
- The ferry and a bike
- Wat Mahathat
- Roti sai mai
- Wat Phra Si Sanphet
- Bueng Phra Ram
- Sunset: Wat Chaiwatthanaram
- The train back
Take the Blue Line to Bang Sue and the direct Bangkok Connex train at five past nine: about seventy-five minutes to Ayutthaya, the capital founded in 1351 and destroyed in 1767. Walk to the river, take the ferry to the island and rent a bike. Ride first to Wat Mahathat for the stone Buddha head in the roots of a fig tree, then to U Thong Road for roti sai mai, soft roti filled with spun-sugar silk. See the three grey chedis of Wat Phra Si Sanphet, rest by the lake, then take a tuk-tuk across the river to Wat Chaiwatthanaram for the last light.
Why it stops at three: after three or four ruins, they start to look the same. Temple tickets are about ฿50 to 80 each.
Tip: the last ferry back is at about half past five, and the last direct train at about a quarter to eight: check the times at the station that morning. Skip the minivans.
Rather have it arranged? Book an Ayutthaya day trip →
The free planner has this day's times, the train and the map →
Day 4 · a Saturday or a Sunday
Markets and the park
- Breakfast: Or Tor Kor
- Chatuchak Weekend Market
- Sunset: Lumphini Park
- Dinner in Silom
Take the Blue Line to Kamphaeng Phet for breakfast at Or Tor Kor, known for Thai fruit, especially mango and durian. Cross the road to Chatuchak at nine: more than fifteen thousand stalls in twenty-seven sections. Pick two or three, and leave by noon. Rest through the hottest hours, then ride the Blue Line to Lumphini at about five, when the joggers come out and the light goes gold on the lake. Silom, for dinner, is one stop away.
Why this order: Chatuchak is packed and at its hottest from one to four. Lumphini is the last sunset of the trip, and the quietest.
Tip: flying out today? Do the markets, and drop the park. Still want a sky deck? Go after dark, not at sunset.
The free planner has this day's times and the map →
